JEJU ISLAND — On the windswept shores of this volcanic island, three women ready themselves for another dive into the cold sea. Lee Bok-soo, 71, adjusts her rubber diving suit, tightening the straps around her shoulders. Lee Han-ok, 68, checks her weight belt. Kim Su-seon, 74, stretches her limbs, taking deep, measured breaths.
Despite their ages, all three will plunge into Jeju’s brackish waters, holding their breath for nearly a minute as they have done for decades, continuing a tradition that has shaped this island for generations.
They are haenyeo, Jeju’s legendary female divers and a vanishing symbol of the island’s cultural and economic heritage. Once tens of thousands strong, the haenyeo population had dwindled to 2,839 by 2024, with over 90% older than 60. Few of their children follow in their footsteps, leaving a generational gap that threatens to erase centuries of knowledge and skill.
Yet these women continue their work, diving for abalone, sea urchins, conchs and seaweed, relying on physical strength, deep knowledge of tides and extraordinary breath-holding capacity.
“The sea is not just where we work,” Lee Bok-soo says. “It is where we learn patience, courage and endurance. Every dive is a conversation with the ocean and with our ancestors who came before us.”
A 400-Year Tradition
The haenyeo tradition stretches back more than four centuries. Historically, these women were the economic backbone of Jeju communities, providing essential seafood while maintaining households in a largely patriarchal society. Unlike fishermen who required costly boats and equipment, haenyeo needed only their bodies, a mask, a snorkel and a weight belt.
Their independence and resilience earned them a unique place in Korean history. In 2016, UNESCO recognized haenyeo culture as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
The work is grueling. Divers descend 5 to 20 meters underwater, holding their breath for 60 to 90 seconds while navigating treacherous rocks, shifting tides and icy waters. Heavy lead belts, sometimes over 10 kilograms, add to the physical toll. Decades of labor have left many haenyeo with chronic back pain, arthritis, headaches and dental issues.
Lee Bok-soo began diving at 17, following her mother’s footsteps. The skills she acquired were vital for raising her children and supporting her family. Today, she primarily harvests conchs, though she recalls when abalone was her most prized catch.
“Every dive is a challenge,” Lee Han-ok says. “But it is also part of who we are. This is our life, our culture, our connection to the sea.”
Crisis of Succession
Today, haenyeo confront a dual crisis: aging and lack of successors. The median age is over 60, with few young women willing to take on the physically demanding profession. Economic pressures, complex certification processes and inherent risks deter new entrants.
“The younger generation wants a different life,” Lee Han-ok explains. “They see our work as too hard, too dangerous and with little financial reward. None of our children want to follow this path.”
To address this, the Jeju Provincial Government offers a settlement fund of at least 500,000 won ($350) per month for three years to women aged 40-44 who commit to becoming haenyeo. Additional subsidies help elderly haenyeo cover village association fees and health care costs to reduce physical strain.
Despite these measures, recruitment remains slow.
Economic Impact Beyond Diving
Haenyeo are more than cultural icons—they are vital to Jeju’s local economy. Their direct income averages around 6.8 million won ($4,800) per year, but their broader economic impact is significant. Tourists flock to witness haenyeo in action, supporting hospitality, dining and local crafts.
Cultural tourism, media exposure and experiential businesses like Haenyeo Kitchen diversify income streams and strengthen Jeju’s identity as a cultural destination.
Haenyeo also play a key role in conservation. By monitoring marine ecosystems and advocating for marine protected areas, they help sustain fisheries that support both their livelihoods and the wider community.
An Uncertain Future
Educational programs now teach young people about diving techniques, history and marine conservation. Cultural tourism initiatives allow visitors to experience haenyeo traditions firsthand.
Yet Lee Bok-soo faces a painful truth.
“Our children see the hardships and do not want to follow,” she says. “Our generation may be the last to dive like this.”
For Lee Bok-soo, who has been diving for over 50 years, each dive carries risk—unpredictable currents, cold temperatures and the ever-present danger of hypoxia. Yet she continues, motivated by duty to her community and the ocean that has sustained her family for decades.
“The ocean is my life,” she says. “It gives, it takes and it teaches. I cannot stop now, even as my body aches and my friends retire. Someone must carry this legacy forward.”
Some envision a hybrid model in which haenyeo combine diving with cultural, scientific and tourist activities—guardians of tradition and ambassadors to the world.
For Kim Su-seon, Lee Bok-soo and Lee Han-ok, the horizon is both literal and symbolic. Waves crash cold and unyielding, yet their resolve remains steadfast.
“Every dive tells a story,” Lee Bok-soo says. “It is about family, community, survival and respect for the sea. Even as our numbers decline, our spirit continues.”
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