BANGKOK — Peppery, crispy fried chicken. Sweet honey dip. A sugar-dusted donut with creme brulee filling. A tangy pickle.
Brassica plays skip rope with the line between sweet and savory in its signature pairing of fried chicken with sweet donuts. It’s a welcome brunch addition to the road that straddles Sathorn and Yan Nawa districts.
“One customer from Philadelphia said eating our chicken and donuts reminded him of home. It’s always good to eat something that reminds you of home,” said Singaporean owner Cong Wen Tan.
Open for its fourth month on Nang Linchi Road, Brassica is the lovechild of Tan, 28, and his girlfriend Woranuch Techatanachuen, 37.
So why fried chicken and donuts? Tan, who previously worked at the more upscale Prelude restaurant in Thonglor, decided that he wanted his own place. Fried chicken is a good starting point for a dish, since the chef has 10 minutes to prepare accompaniments once the chicken is in the fryer. What about donuts? Tan had met a warm reception selling them at local farmers’ markets. The result was an American-style chicken-and-donut eatery.
“In no way are we forcing you to eat the two together. You can have the donuts separately as dessert. But if you’re adventurous enough, you can try tasting the spicy and sweet combination,” Tan said.
The free-range fried chicken is crispy and full of pepper, but remains juicy on the inside. Rather than plain sugar donuts (40 baht each), go for the filled donuts (75 baht each), which come in flavours such as creme brulee, strawberry and palm sugar. The fillings are all locally-sourced.
The signature dish of two pieces of chicken and a donut costs 300 baht and comes with a variety of sauces to choose from. Alternatively, try the fried chicken sandwich (260 baht) or the Brassica’s Pancake (350 baht), a vegetable-filled pancake with a topping of Sloane’s bacon (a vegetarian option is also available). Keep watch for rotating specials.
Most patrons are Thais either on dates or with their families, while other customers casually stroll in, lean over the counter and ask if the donuts have run out yet – Tan only bakes 20 per day on weekdays and 40 per day on weekends.
“We’re in a residential area, so I want people to continually come back here. They can drop by for lunch, dinner, or just donuts and coffee,” Tan said. “Ideally, this would be a neighborhood restaurant.”
Tan cooks everything himself behind the restaurant’s wooden counter, from baking and stuffing donuts to frying chicken and pancakes. Woranuch meanwhile greets customers, seating customers at either the bar or the maroon plush sofas.
Brassica is open every day except Tuesdays from 11:30am to 2:30pm for brunch and 6pm to 11pm for dinner. Located on Nang Linchi Road, it’s a short taxi or motorbike ride from BTS Chong Nonsi or MRT Lumphini. If driving, park at nearby minimall Market Place Nanglinchee.
This review is unsponsored and based on an announced visit.
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