CHIANG MAI — A popular cafe in Chiang Mai continues to operate normally with steady customer flow after its owner addressed controversial accusations. The establishment denied claims it was operating as a “human zoo” following viral images shared by a female politician showing customers being served while tobacco leaf sorters worked in the background.
The controversy began when Dr. Nick Suwadee Phanphanich, a former Thai Sang Thai Party parliamentary candidate and Thonburi Hospital executive, shared a photo of herself at the cafe with workers sorting tobacco leaves visible in the background. The image went viral, triggering widespread criticism, with many suggesting the setup resembled a “human zoo” and reinforced class divisions in Thai society.
Dr. Nick later clarified her position, stating she respects community traditions that create diverse cultures and occupations. “I appreciate cafes that allow people to witness authentic lifestyles that still exist, similar to tea plantation cafes, farm cafes, and weaving center cafes that provide opportunities for people to learn and participate in activities,” she wrote.
“I disagree with the term ‘human zoo’ because it reflects shallow thinking and generalization by those using it, and it demeans the workers. They have honor and dignity, and we must respect their way of life,” she added, thanking the cafe for sharing this lifestyle with younger generations.
The female owner of “Yen.CNX” expressed shock at the misunderstanding of her cafe’s intentions. She explained that the property was originally her family’s tobacco sorting factory with a long history dating back to her grandfather’s generation, continued by her father, and now operated by her uncle.
“The cafe never intended to diminish the value of any occupation or trample on anyone’s dignity. On the contrary, we believe every profession has value, and everyone deserves equal respect and dignity,” she stated.
She further explained that she aimed to continue her ancestors’ legacy in a format accessible to the public, preserving the original factory’s spirit. The owner hired designers committed to conserving the original architectural beauty to create a space that tells the story of the family business through original structures and exhibition rooms detailing tobacco cultivation, curing, and sorting processes.
During the January to May season, actual tobacco sorting still takes place. The workers are skilled professionals from the original operation, not hired for show, and receive fair compensation for their work.
“This cafe wasn’t established for entertainment but intended as a space for learning and sharing stories about a historically valuable occupation, always respecting the dignity of all workers,” she emphasized, adding that she would incorporate feedback for improvements.
Reporters in Chiang Mai noted that the cafe has been open for over three years, continuing the family’s traditional tobacco business.
One customer who had just learned about the controversy hours before visiting said she came specifically to try the coffee and experience the cafe’s atmosphere, noting that traditional tobacco processing like this is rare to witness. She suggested the controversial photos might have been taken from angles that created misunderstandings.
“Having seen it with my own eyes, my perspective differs from what many people think. I see it as one of the cafe’s selling points, highlighting the tobacco leaf processing profession. To me, it’s no different from showcasing coffee production processes—it’s simply demonstrating traditional tobacco leaf processing.”
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