It is a rare rainy day in Bangkok’s dry season. The wet smell of petrichor rises off the asphalt as I stride down an alley off Sukhumvit from Nana station. In that moment, it feels like a place locals would rarely desire to patron.
Today is different. I am here to visit an esteemed Eastern Thai restaurant that I have read much about, but have yet to try: Burapa. I have come to sample its new lunch menu at the invitation of a friend.
Unlike many of the businesses along this alley which seem to cater more to one-time tourists than repeat visitors, Burapa stands out as an inspired icon amid a slurry of forgettable fluff. The restaurant, like much of Eastern Thai cuisine, is tucked away in an area that I would not normally visit without good reason. Located on the corner of Soi 11 in the heart of Bangkok, it could easily be missed amongst the hustle and bustle—but today I approach with anticipation.
A restaurant greets you before you walk in the door. This time it is not staff, but a friend that waves me in. As soon as I enter, I feel the warmth of Burapa. A reprieve from a rainy day, the foyer feels lived-in, and the naturally bright lunchroom immediately shines. Before I sit down it already feels like an excellent place for lunch.
Like most visitors to Thailand, I do not know what to expect from Eastern Thai cuisine, but I am curious. I have tasted the strong fermented flavours of the northeast, experienced the sugar-laden dishes of Bangkok, and been overwhelmed by the intense spices of the south. Eastern Thai, as I am told, balances in-between all of those, forming something distinct.
Before I eat, I am introduced to the long teak bar, where house-made fruit syrups in glass vessels line the counter. Without saying anything, I watch the staff work. It is immediately clear that they are well-trained, attentive, and experienced. If not for the menu ahead, I could have spent the hour here simply appreciating their focused process.
My drink, like the staff and décor, did not disappoint. It is a balanced, slightly sweet cocktail made with Bussaba, a beer from Full Moon Brewworks. It is garnished with an orange slice, which I happily indulge in. It is fruity, aromatic, and effortlessly enjoyable. I would recommend it to anyone except those who prefer only the most bitter beverages. The snack pairing was equally well executed: elegant in texture and light. Some restaurants treat bar snacks as afterthoughts, but at Burapa even these elements are carefully considered.
A whole table of options are brought before me, some new and some familiar. I try everything I can while maintaining my manners. Unlike western restaurants, where dishes are typically prepared for individuals, in true Thai fashion we share many dishes among the table.
There are too many items for me to list them all, but here are a few notable ones before I share my favourite:
My dish of the day, however, is the grilled red chicken, followed closely by the rawang curry. The meat is wonderfully tender and disappears quickly from my plate. The curry was soothing and warm, with a finely tuned flavour profile. The salad is a thoughtful accompaniment.
Stuffed from such a large sampling, we still, of course, made room for dessert. The most memorable to me is the salted coconut ice cream, but this one is not for those with a sweet tooth. The sweetness is subtle, while the salt cuts through. The toasted coconut underneath offers a light crunch that constrasts against the smooth, creamy texture of the ice cream.
The notion of balance emerges again and again across the new lunch menu. There is sourness, spice, sweetness, and umami, yet none of these flavours dominate. Instead, Burapa serves a composition of flavours, ensuring that no dish is confined to a single part of the palate. After trying almost everything on offer, I can confidently say that not a single item lets me down.
Order anything on the lunch menu that appeals to you, and you should experience a refined balance of texture and flavour. I come away from Burapa feeling as though I have experienced fine dining, with the satisfaction and warmth of a home-cooked meal.
Worth the visit and worthy of return, I recommend this Eastern Thai restaurant to anyone visiting Bangkok. Whether you are new to Thai cuisine or well versed, you are likely to be impressed by some of the best food I have had the pleasure of tasting in the city.
Burapa is well worth seeking out—find the location below.
26 Sukhumvit 11 Aly, Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110
This review is not sponsored. The writer is featured as a guest and all opinions expressed are their own.
